The Best Dishes Eater Editors Ate This Week - Eater NY

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The amount of excellent food available in New York City is dizzying — even during a pandemic — yet mediocre meals somehow keep worming their way into our lives. With Eater editors dining out sometimes several times a day, we do come across lots of standout dishes, and we don’t want to keep any secrets. Check back weekly for the best things we ate this week — so you can, too.

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December 6

A beef patty with cheese at Tastee Pattee.

Luke Fortney/Eater NY

Beef patty with cheese at Tastee Pattee

I ate my weight in ground beef and coco bread this week, walking the streets of Brooklyn and the Bronx and nibbling Jamaican patties as I went. Preparations for this handheld baked good vary from storefront to storefront — doughy, flakey, yellow, orange, rectangular, and crescent-shaped patties are all on offer in the five boroughs — but my favorite are those that come out crisp, piping hot, and a little bit spicy. This patty with cheese ($2.75) from Tastee Pattee hit all the marks. Order it on its own, or wedged between a piece of coco bread, a pillowy baked good that’s sweetened slightly with coconut milk, for a dollar more. 987 Flatbush Avenue, near Albemarle Road, Flatbush — Luke Fortney, reporter

Cobia al pastor.

Ryan Sutton/Eater NY

Cobia al pastor at Cosme

I’ve kept a pretty close eye on Cosme, Enrique Olvera’s modern Mexican spot, since its opening in late 2014. My pre-pandemic regimen was to make about one or two visits every year, usually to see if it was running on all cylinders as it went on to charge some seriously steep prices. Last week, finally, I swung by the bar for the first time since COVID — and since chef Gustavo Garnica assumed the kitchen reins — and the results were about as strong as ever. I tried a solid mole negro and a very good Wagyu beef huarache, but my favorite dish was the restaurant’s longtime classic, cobia al pastor, an indulgent $34 appetizer. The chile-flecked fish sported a gentle tataki sear and voluptuous oceanic oils — all meant to be tamed by a quenelle of pineapple puree and aromatic corn tortillas. I hope to be back here more often, even if it’s a strain on the old bank account. 35 East 21st Street, near Park Avenue South, Flatiron — Ryan Sutton, chief critic

Eggs with plantains and crema at La Palma.

Erika Adams/Eater NY

Huevos picados with plantains and crema at La Palma

I’m a sucker for a warm, comforting breakfast plate, and I came across one at Salvadoran spot La Palma during a trip to the Rockaways this weekend that checked all of my boxes. The scrambled eggs ($7.95) were loaded up with dice-sized cubes of cooked onions and red and green peppers, which I scooped up with two thick, white corn tortillas that I ordered on the side (50 cents apiece). The fried sweet plantains that came with the dish were rich and juicy, with a caramelized exterior that added a satisfying bit of crunch to each bite. There weren’t any bells and whistles on this particular plate, just straightforward ingredients treated very well. 1037 Beach 20th Street, near Mott Avenue, Far Rockaway — Erika Adams, deputy editor

Oxtail stew at Else La Reina del Chicharron.

Bao Ong/Eater NY

Oxtail stew at Elsa La Reina del Chicharron

It was one those moments where I just pointed at the menu and nodded as I spouted my gringo-level Spanish to the woman behind the counter. “Un rabo guisado, por favor,” I whispered. I took home my lunch order of oxtail stew ($15) not knowing exactly what the entire meal included. There was the fork-tender oxtail nestled in a generous serving of rice — perfect as expected because I’ve heard countless good things about Elsa La Reina del Chicharron, a popular Dominican restaurant. While the too-sweet potato salad was a pass, the saucy beans — which tasted like they had simmered for days — made this meal one of my best lunches in recent memory. I poured it over the rice the following day for dinner, and now I can only think about going back (and hitting up Google translate) so I can request the crispy chicharron everyone was taking home. 4840 Broadway, at Academy Street, Inwood — Bao Ong, editor

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The Best Dishes Eater Editors Ate This Week - Eater NY
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