FALL RIVER — A one-of-a-kind indoor market with an open-air feel that's become a go-to for all things Portuguese — from authentic food and wine to specialty groceries to decor — continues to turn heads.
The city’s Portugalia Marketplace, which over the years has garnered national attention having been featured in numerous publications — such as Saveur Magazine — and popular TV food shows, has recently landed in the spotlight once again.
Facing stiff competition from across the country, the Fall River food stop made the New York Times' list of "23 of the Best American Dishes of 2023," which was released on Tuesday, Dec. 12.
What are considered 'Best Dishes'
Cuisine on the list included everything from classic pub grub like fried chicken, to Hire Katsu Curry, to island-based Seattle Rocky Road ice cream with macadamia nut dragées, to the high-concept Dungeness crab doughnut.
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The dish that earned Portugalia a spot on this list of coast-to-coast culinary contenders: Bacalhau a Gomes de Sa.
"It's pretty incredible, we'll take it of course," said Portugalia co-owner Michael Benevides regarding the recent New York Times nod.
Well-known for its bacalhau (salted codfish), Portugalia features its own large, temperature-controlled salt cod room.
Times food writer Brett Anderson praised their Bacalhau a Gomes de Sa as "a rustic, salty favorite in this Portuguese stronghold on the New England coast."
So what is Bacalhau a Gomes de Sa?
In the Times' description, it is referred to as a "classic bacalhau stew."
One of the most traditional Portuguese dishes that will be found on many a holiday table across Greater Fall River, it is a codfish casserole with potatoes, onions, and olives and eggs.
The iconic dish is named after its creator, Jose Luis Gomes de Sá Jr., a 19th-century cod merchant with a passion for cooking who developed this casserole for the Restaurante Lisbonense in Porto.
It's one of three staples you can find everyday at Portugalia's prepared food counter, along with their Piri Piri chicken and octopus.
Bacalhau a Gomes de Sa is a very common Portuguese dish. What makes Portugalia's version stand out from the rest, Benevides said, is the quality and quantity of their cod.
"There's an abundance of cod in our version. Oftentimes you get it in other places and there's more potato than cod ... you're getting a lot of fish in ours," Benevides said. "Because cod is such a big staple in our market, we want it well represented so we use the best."
Portugalia's humble beginnings
The Times mention also highlights the family-owned market's evolution over three decades, from its humble beginnings in a three-car garage to its current, grander 489 Bedford St. location that draws people from all over the country.
Founded over 30 years ago by Fernando Benevides, the 20,000-square-foot store is now run by his two children, Michael and Jennifer, and features a collection of over 1,300 different Portuguese wines and spirits, a café, prepared foods, a cod room and Portuguese design shop.
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Fall River market featured on PBS, Travel Channel
More than a market, Portugalia has grown into a culinary destination and cultural experience that has caught the eye of some big names over the years.
That includes chef Marcus Samuelsson, who featured Portugalia on the PBS show "No Passport Required," and celebrity host Misha Collins with PBS show "Roadfood.
Members of The Portuguese Kids hosted "Bizarre Foods" star Andrew Zimmern in 2013 for a tour of Fall River, stopping in at Portugalia's former Tremont Street location during an episode of the Travel Channel show. Portugalia was also featured on a segment of "Weekends with Yankee," a production of WGBH Boston and Yankee Magazine.
In a previous Herald News article, Benevides said exposure from these shows have had a positive effect on business, as people who've watched the show make the trek to the Fall River, some from far distances, to get a taste of Portugalia for themselves.
A Rhode Island spot lands on 'Best Dishes' list
Following closely after Portugalia on the New York Times "Best Dishes" list was another Portuguese favorite from a local dining spot in Rhode Island.
The Times lauded Matunuck Oyster Bar in South Kingstown, Rhode Island, for its littlenecks and chouriço. They praised the waterfront restaurant's truly local menu, featuring oysters they farm themselves at the nearby Potter Pond, as well as its "snappy garlic-and-white-wine sauté of sausage and Rhode Island clams, a tribute to the state’s sizable population of Portuguese Americans — and of mollusks."
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December 14, 2023 at 05:38AM
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Portugalia on New York Times' '23 of the Best American Dishes of 2023' - Fall River Herald News
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