The Best Dishes Eater Editors Ate This Week - Eater NY

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The amount of excellent food available in New York City is dizzying — even during a pandemic — yet mediocre meals somehow keep worming their way into our lives. With Eater editors dining out sometimes several times a day, we do come across lots of standout dishes, and we don’t want to keep any secrets. Check back weekly for the best things we ate this week — so you can, too.

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September 5

Lee Iacocca at Lioni Italian Heroes

There may not be a messier hot hero in the world than the Lee Iacocca at Lioni, the classic Bensonhurst fresh mozzarella and hero shop. The sandwich ($16) is number 52 on a 150-sandwich menu, mainly named after Italian and Italian American notables. The sandwich piles warm roast beef on a very long loaf, then slaps on a couple of sheets of the shop’s creamy mozzarella, which promptly melts and oozes. gravy is poured over that, which turns the sandwich into a brown swamp. Eat it at one of the tables inside or outside the shop before it mushes up further — but I guarantee that one bite taken, you won’t be able to stop. 7803 15th Avenue, at 78th Street, Bensonhurst — Robert Sietsema, senior critic

The Wren at Sea & Soil.

Emma Orlow/Eater NY

The Wren at Sea & Soil

Sea & Soil, a new bakery and sandwich shop that started as a pop-up, now has a permanent home in Carroll Gardens. The business sells sandwiches on a sliding scale that ranges from $9 to $16. I ordered the Wren: roast chicken, aji verde, sliced red onions, aioli, and greens. It’s a simple, nutritious sandwich served on focaccia that’s made in-house. In addition to sandwiches, the worker-owner shop makes and sells pastries, like a pretzel roll with baked feta. 102 President Street, near Columbia Street, Carroll Gardens — Emma Orlow, reporter

A beef patty with lettuce and tomato from Puffs Patties.

Luke Fortney/Eater NY

Loaded beef patty from Puffs Patties

Jamaican beef patties have been turning up with all sorts of fillings lately: oxtail, macaroni, whipped plantains, and Texas-style barbecue. Of course, neighborhood pizzerias have been doing this for years — many slice shops will sell you a Tower Isles patty with mozzarella and tomato sauce for a few dollars — but now it’s Caribbean restaurants who are moving the needle. Puffs Patties, which opened on Nostrand Avenue this summer, serves beef patties in a few varieties: The one pictured here becomes a handheld salad with the addition of lettuce, tomato, and melted cheese. ($6.50). 812 Nostrand Avenue, near Lincoln Place, Crown Heights — Luke Fortney, reporter

The cheeseburger at One White Street

Melissa McCart/Eater NY

The cheeseburger at One White Street

There’s a lot to like on the menu at One White Street, the Michelin-starred restaurant from chef Austin Johnson and sommelier Dustin Wilson — in a townhouse in which each of three floors has its own kitchen. When I visited late-ish on a Monday, the first and third floors were bustling and an Italian influencer was staging in the upper-level garde manger. For my best dish, I’m going to include the cheeseburger here — with its quality beef double patty, browned sesame bun, a cascade of cheddar, a light application of special sauce and onions, and thin-shaved pickles on the side ($30). Also memorable: striped bass with corn and tomatoes ($42), and the mushroom with hazelnuts and black garlic ($16). 1 White Street, at Franklin Street, Tribeca — Melissa McCart, editor

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The Best Dishes Eater Editors Ate This Week - Eater NY
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