By Ava Stryker-Robbins
I have been a fan of plantains for as long as I can remember. Their sweet taste and smooth texture are a fabulous accompaniment to many meals. But Pico de Gallo’s Platano al Mole takes the fruit further with an entrée that features a plantain cake with either chicken or beef, coated in a mole sauce and sprinkled with cheese and sour cream.
According to chef Edgar Gomez, Platano al Mole originated in Guatemala, though it is a central dish in Mexican cuisine. Gomez wanted to include it on the menu because it contains platanos maduros (cooking bananas), a staple in Latin America. Gomez says the recipes he creates are variations of the dishes he ate throughout his childhood in Mexico, and that food is very important to his family. “The kitchen was our temple,” he says.
The sweet flavor of the plantain, savory flavor of the meat (I had beef), and slightly spicy flavor of the mole sauce create a delicious flavor palette. The cheese and sour cream enhance its tastiness.
Pico de Gallo opened in 2022 in place of Guacamole, though the chef and many employees remained the same. It is run by Austria Rodriguez, Sandra Mejia, and Ingry Rodriguez, who have been friends for over 20 years and share a love of food, especially Mexican, and music. They are all of Dominican descent. Austria Rodriguez grew up on the Upper West Side on West 88th Street, while Sandra and Ingry grew up in Washington Heights. “The kitchen is our therapy…it is what brings us together,” Austria says. “Food is how you show love.”
Pico de Gallo has both indoor and outdoor dining, and a decorated outdoor patio. Their other signature dishes include fajitas and tacos. In September, they plan to add live music and are thinking about karaoke.
The Platano al Mole costs $25.95
The Dish: Platano al Mole
The Restaurant: Pico de Gallo (768 Amsterdam between 97th and 98th Streets)
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