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Tuesday, May 2, 2023

Seven favorite Mexican dishes in St. Paul metro to try on Cinco de Mayo - St. Paul Pioneer Press

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Cinco de Mayo, that celebration of all things Mexico, is one of my favorite holidays, because it usually involves tacos and tequila, two things I am frequently in the mood for.

But tacos aren’t the only Mexican food I’m in love with — in fact, there’s little in the way of food from our southern neighbor that I won’t eat.

So this year, I decided to offer you a smattering of my favorite Mexican dishes in town, from some of my most-frequented restaurants. If you’re looking to change things up, maybe give some of these dishes a try!

Machete at Taco Libre

A long tortilla filled with meat, cheese and lettuce
The Machete at Taco Libre, Dec. 10, 2019. (Nancy Ngo / Pioneer Press)

This local chain of restaurants started less than a mile from my house, and I’ve been a fan since day one. I’ve tried most of the menu, but I always come back to the machete — a giant, house-made tortilla (seriously, it’s the size of a manhole cover), stuffed with meat, lettuce, crema and melty Oaxaca cheese. It’s like a cross between a taco and a quesadilla, and it’s absolutely craveable. My husband and I share it and still, I often can’t finish my half. You choose which meat you want, and if you and your eating partner can’t agree, you can get it half and half. I like the carnitas or the chicken tinga, but the birria beef is also a solid choice.

Taco Libre: 1221 S. Robert St., West St. Paul; 8364 N. Third St., Oakdale; 2111 N. Snelling Ave., Roseville; 1270 Promenade Place, No. 140, Eagan; 5125 Edina Industrial Blvd, Edina; tacolibreusa.com

Torta at Pajarito

A hoagie-looking sandwich, sliced in half and sitting in a puddle of red sauce. It is topped with pink pickled onions and green cilantro.
Torta at Pajarito in St.Paul, pictured in July 2018. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

As with all of my favorite spots, it was hard to choose a favorite from Pajarito, but this loaded, sliced beef and dirty-good queso sandwich, served sliced in half with its cut ends soaking in a slurpable salsa roja, is what I kept coming back to. Every time I order this with a friend who hasn’t tried it, their eyes nearly pop out of their sockets when they try a bite. The habanero cilantro margarita here is one of the best in town, too.

Pajarito:  605 W. Seventh St., St. Paul; 651-340-9545 or 3910 W. 50th St., Edina; 612-268-4770; pajaritorestaurant.com

Sopes at El Burrito Mercado

Two masa (ground corn) discs, covered with red-sauce braised chicken, sour cream and crumbly white cheese. A little bowl of refried beans and a pile of orange rice accompanies.
Sopes from El Burrito Mercado in St. Paul. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

Look around during weekend brunch time at this recently remodeled West Side market and cafe, and you’ll see many of the Hispanic clientele munching on sopes, which are round discs of masa topped with refried beans and the meat of your choice, crema and queso fresco. The Burrito’s version is large — so large that I usually eat only one, but that means I have lunch the next day, too. Get it as a platter if you want rice and beans, or a la carte if you don’t. Another pro tip: The deli case here has fantastic heat-and-eat options for busy families. We particularly like the tamales paired with rice and beans by the quart.

El Burrito Mercado: 175 Cesar Chavez St., St. Paul; 651-227-2192; elburritomercado.com

Mole enchiladas at Boca Chica

Two enchiladas topped with dark mole, white cheese and three onion slices, flanked by refried beans and Mexican rice.
Mole enchiladas at Boca Chica on St. Paul’s West Side. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

Mole — the Mexican sauce made from a boatload of ingredients that are simmered for many hours — is like comfort food for me, especially in enchilada form. Because Boca Chica is so close to home, theirs is the version I most often crave: Corn tortillas, stuffed with tender chicken, topped with a deep dark mole, a little queso fresco and some onion, flanked by refried beans and Mexican rice. Simple, homey, delicious. The margaritas here are top-notch, too.

Boca Chica: 11 Cesar Chavez St., St. Paul; 651-222-8499; bocachicarestaurant.com

Chilaquiles at Homi

Tortilla chips smothered in green sauce with a stripe of green cilantro, white Mexican cheese and a pile of chicken.
Chilaquiles at Homi on University Avenue. Chilaquiles, a Mexican breakfast staple is basically tortilla chips smothered in sauce and topped with any number of savory items — meat, cheese, eggs, sour cream, cilantro, the possibilities are endless.

My husband is a huge fan of chilaquiles, a breakfast habit he picked up during his frequent trips to Mexico. The dish, a great use for past-their-prime tortillas, consists of corn tortilla chips, smothered in green or red sauce and topped with cheese, cilantro, onions and the like. Meat or eggs are optional, but required if you are my husband. I love the bright, tangy green sauce on the version at Homi.

Homi: 864 W. University Ave., St. Paul; 651-222-0655; homirestaurant.com

Al Pastor tacos from Tacos Tacos Tacos

Tacos with red pork, diced onion and cilantro. Lime wedges, radish and cucumber slices are on the side.
Al pastor tacos from Tacos Tacos Tacos on St. Paul’s West Seventh Street. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

Did you think I could make a whole list of Mexican dishes without including some tacos? No way. The West Seventh Street location of this restaurant — the first is in Duluth — makes legit al pastor (spit-roasted pork) that is as juicy as it is flavorful. The tiny restaurant’s al pastor tacos are topped traditionally with onions and cilantro and don’t need much else, though a drizzle of one of the restaurant’s delicious salsas is definitely welcome.

Tacos Tacos Tacos: 241 W. Seventh St., St. Paul; 651-493-6884; taqueriamn.com

Centro Crunch at Centro

A sliced open Centro Crunch, which is filled with ground beef, a crisp tortilla, green lettuce, cheese, sour cream and tomatoes. A side of green salsa accompanies the dish.
Centro Crunch from Centro in St. Paul’s Highland Park neighborhood. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)

The third location of Centro, the casual Mexican restaurant that started in Northeast Minneapolis, just opened in Highland Park, and though it was crazy busy when we visited, we were still in and out within an hour, and the food was great. We loved everything we tried, but the Centro Crunch, the restaurant’s riff on a certain fast-food favorite, made us smile from the nostalgia but also because it was everything that low-brow item should be. This crunch wrap consists of quality, flavorful ground beef, an actually crisp tostada, crunchy green lettuce, creamy cheese and fresh tomatoes wrapped in a giant tortilla, which is seared together on a flat-top. We also loved that the restaurant’s not-too-sweet margaritas come in pitchers — and that pitcher came out just minutes after we submitted an online order from our table.

Centro: 750 S. Cleveland Ave., St. Paul; 612-489-5558; centrompls.com

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Seven favorite Mexican dishes in St. Paul metro to try on Cinco de Mayo - St. Paul Pioneer Press
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