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Monday, December 26, 2022

Ian McNulty: 52 dishes from a year of New Orleans dining to try in 2023 - NOLA.com

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I hope you’re hungry. What you have here is a 52 tastes, snapshot style, of eating around New Orleans through another busy year coving this ever-changing dining scene. Hopefully some ideas for your next outing.

Let’s be clear, and I feel I must in this age of endless aggregation and no-context “best of” lists: This is not a ranking of top dishes or favorite restaurants, and there is no pecking order behind the way they are arranged.

Instead, these are dishes, experiences and memories that have stayed with me through the year.

I could have included many more, but you have to stop somewhere. I picked 52 because that gives you one per week for the year. So here we go:

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Lamb chops are the specialty at 8 Fresh Food Assassin, a new 7th Ward restaurant on North Claiborne Avenue in New Orleans. (Photo by Chris Granger | The Times-Picayune | The New Orleans Advocate)

Grilled lamb chops at 8 Fresh Food Assassin, 1900 N. Claiborne Ave. – Manny January combined his many years cooking at Galatoire’s with his experience as a street food vendor to create his new 7th Ward restaurant. The name is memorable; these lamb chops, with a charred edge and buttery succulence, are unforgettable.

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The table salad on the bar menu at Saint Germain bistro in New Orleans. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Table salad at Saint Germain, 3054 St Claude Ave. – The main dining room serves a tasting menu by reservation only; but in the wine bar and patio serves a menu dubbed “bar snacks” that would be quite enough to outfit a small bistro in its own right. See the so-called table salad, a platter of raw, fermented and cooked vegetables bursting with flavor.

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Pho and pizza share the menu at Huey P's Pizzeria and Daiquiris in New Orleans and Violet. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune) 

Pho and pizza at Huey P’s, 2424 Tulane Ave. and 7801 E. St. Bernard Hwy., Violet – It’s not fusion, but side by side dishes on the menus at these two branches of the Nguyen family’s pizzeria, bringing in specialties from the family’s traditional Vietnamese restaurant Thanh Thanh in Gretna (next to another Huey P’s).

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Doubles are classic Trinbagonian street food, with chickpea curry inside tumeric flatbread, served at Queen Trini Lisa, a Mid-City restaurant for flavors from Trinidad and Tobago.

Doubles at Queen Trini Lisa, 4200 D’Hemecourt St. – Flavors of Trinidad & Tobago are the basis for this backstreet find. Start with doubles, a street food standard of puffy flatbread suffused with turmeric and folded around (or doubled over) a curried chickpea chana.

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Hand-formed burger patties and roast beef gravy combine for an off-the-menu special po-boy at the St. Rose Tavern in New Sarpy. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, Nola.com | The Times-Picayune)

Hamburger po-boy at St. Rose Tavern in New Sarpy, 14466 River Road, Destrehan – We came on the tavern’s first day back after a hiatus forced by Hurricane Ida. We had the first-rate roast beef again, but watching regulars order led to a second round and extended lunch for hand-formed burgers covered by a ladle of gravy and a load of grilled onions.

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A cheese plate is served at Bacchanal in New Orleans, Thursday, June 9, 2022. The Bywater establishment turned 20 years old this month. (Photo by Sophia Germer, NOLA.com, The Times-Picayune | The New Orleans Advocate)

Charcuterie plate at Bacchanal, 600 Poland Ave. – This summer marked 20 years since Bacchanal opened its doors as a small neighborhood wine shop. Through much change and tremendous growth, the platter of meat and cheese and pickled vegetables in the leafy patio with live music going and a bottle slowly draining was all Bacchanal.

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Almasgoof restaurant in Metairie serves traditional Iraqi dishes, including the namesake fish almasgood (center), whole chicken, shawarma, hummus and babaganoush and samoon bread. (Photo by Chris Granger | The Times-Picayune | The New Orleans Advocate)

Pompano at Almasgoof, 5024 W. Esplanade Ave., Metairie – The name of this Iraqi restaurant refers to its specialty: whole fish butterflied, marinated, then pressed into a metal grill basket and cooked near a roaring fire of charcoal and oak. We went after it with first forks, then fingers, pulling juicy meat tinged with turmeric, pomegranate and a burst of lemon.

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Carnival colors swirl through braided dough for the donut king cake at Little J's Donuts in Harahan. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, Nola.com | The Times-Picayune)

Donut king cake at Little J’s Donuts, 1301 Hickory St., Harahan – A story on doughnut shop king cakes led to this eye-popping example, fried, heavily iced and with at tie-dye-like interior swirling with Carnival colors.

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The Viet-Pinoy-Cajun crawfish from Southerns food truck adds Filipino flavors and a dose of garlic butter to a Louisiana staple. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Viet-Pinoy-Cajun crawfish from Southerns food truck, various locations, see Instagram.com/southernsfood – This food truck is rightly known for its fried chicken sandwich, but in season it also puts out great crawfish. This version starts with a garlic butter in the Viet-Cajun style and then adds Filipino flavors, bringing fish sauce, ginger and adobo to the mix.

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The Slavic sampler with pierogi, kielbasa and golubtsy at the Green Room, a restaurant for Eastern European flavors in New Orleans. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

The Slavic platter at the Green Room, 1300 St. Bernard Ave. – Third-generation Ukrainian chef Matt Ribachonek calls his cooking Slavic soul food, and the heart that flows through it has never been more resonant than now against the backdrop of Russia’s war against Ukraine. The sampler brings a tour of tastes, including pierogi, kielbasa and golubtsy cabbage rolls.

sallys crab

Crab-Santhemum, a dish of fresh crab with a buttery sauce, is served at Seafood Sally's in New Orleans. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Crab-Santhemum at Seafood Sally’s, 8400 Oak St. – It seems so simple and it is just crazy good. Big, snowy hunks of crabmeat are interspersed with claws with a crab shell filled with a mix of butter and crab fat with chili and lemongrass.

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Caviar is served with creme fraiche and fried potato scallops at Jewel of the South in the French Quarter of New Orleans. (Photo by Chris Granger | The Times-Picayune | The New Orleans Advocate)

Caviar with potato scallops at Jewel of the South, 1026 St. Louis St. – Chef Phil Whitmarsh brings a modern British approach to this cocktail destination, with a reinvention of familiar flavors. That goes for the caviar service with potato scallops, which are crisp as chips, fluffy as blini, and like the marriage of beignets and soufflé potatoes.

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Dry aged bluefin tuna is a specialty cut at GW Fins restaurant in New Orleans. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Dry-aged bluefin tuna at GW Fins, 808 Bienville St. – This high-aiming seafood house brings a lot of different fish to the table. But chef Mike Nelson is also transforming what some of these catches can be through dry aging techniques, yielding denser, deeply-flavored cuts.

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The hot roast beef po-boy from Adams Street Grocery in New Orleans is a hearty meal at a low price. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, Nola.com | The Times-Picayune)

Roast beef po-boy at Adams Street Grocery, 1309 Adams St. – A quest to find meals still under $10 led to this longtime grocery and po-boys at prices that still live up to the name. The hot roast beef comes dripping with gravy to soak into the Dong Phuong bakery bread.

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Tacos and taco burgers from Taco Tico, which has one local outpost in Kenner for crunchy taco comfort food. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Crunchy tacos at Taco Tico, 2529 Williams Blvd, Kenner – A story on food options in the orbit of the new airport terminal brought me to this last local outpost of Taco Tico, still in drive-thru only mode. It sparked an outpouring of affection from readers with a strong craving of the old fashioned Kenner-Mex brand of taco.

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Sauteed veal liver buried under egg with fried onions and potatoes at Clancy's Restaurant in New Orleans. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Veal liver at Clancy’s, 6100 Annunciation St. – We met an old friend at the bar, and soon made more friends for the duration of an elbow-to-elbow dinner at this Uptown essential. For as many times I’ve done that, it was my bolder dining companion who introduced me to this robust chorus of strong flavors, with fried onions heaped over the egg-topped liver.

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Chileatole with trout roe and uni from the tasting menu at Lengua Madre restaurant in New Orleans. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Chileatole at Lengua Madre, 1245 Constance St. – A journey through chef Anna Castro’s tasting menu can make you rethink what a Mexican restaurant means, course by course. This one, based on a traditional soup, was a harmony of chiles ignited by the umami of trout roe and sea urchin.

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Blackened redfish with green chile butter sauce is one of the more upscale dishes at Junior's on Harrison, a modern neighborhood restaurant in Lakeview. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Blackened redfish at Junior’s on Harrison, 789 Harrison Ave. – This modern neighborhood restaurants proves great cocktails count in the same category as comfort food and that a menu with something for everyone can make those things special too. Here, for instance, is a blackened redfish that does indeed taste blackened, a rarity today.

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Freshly shucked oysters at Le Chat Noir in New Orleans on Wednesday, August 3, 2022. (Photo by Chris Granger | The Times-Picayune | The New Orleans Advocate)

A dozen different oysters at Le Chat Noir, 715 St. Charles Ave. – It’s home to one of the two most progressive oyster programs in New Orleans (the other is at Sidecar, see below). You can order oysters individually, so we assembled a mixed dozen and went to town, from the buttery brine of Murder Point oysters from Alabama to Washington state Kumamoto oysters all snug in their deeply-ridged shells.

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House-made bacon swaddles the jalapeno duck poppers at the Commissary, a combination restaurant, market and commissary kitchen from the Dickie Brennan & Co. restaurant group. (staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Duck poppers at the Commissary, 634 Orange St. – Literally a commissary kitchen for Dickie Brennan’s restaurants, the Commissary came into its own as a restaurant and market with prepared foods, charcuterie, stocks and sauces for home. So you can eat these bacon-wrapped jalapeño duck poppers while contemplating whether you should get a pack of the same poppers for your next happy hour at home (answer: yes).

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The cavoletti pizza has shaved Brussels sprouts, garlic confit, ricotta cream and quadrello di bufala cheese, with lemon zest at Margot's, a restaurant for wood-fired pizza and cocktails in New Orleans. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Cavoletti pizza at Margot’s, 1243 Frenchmen St. – The wood-fired pies here are the best in town, with a sourdough crust with a subtle tang and great, stretchy, pull-apart texture. Try the cavoletti, all lacy with shaved Brussels sprouts, rich with garlic confit, ricotta cream and quadrello di bufala cheese, and finished with a bright burst of lemon. Have a negroni too.

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Cobia topped with crabmeat over blackened scallion rice gets a dose of creamy crab sauce at the Chloe on St. Charles Avenue in New Orleans on Wednesday, August 24, 2022. (Photo by Chris Granger | The Times-Picayune | The New Orleans Advocate)

Roasted lemonfish at The Chloe, 4125 St. Charles Ave. – Chef Todd Pulsinelli is serving beautifully balanced modern Creole cuisine at this small Uptown hotel. This example has the natural citrus-like zing of the fish, a clutch of crabmeat over its honey-gold surface and a side of blackened scallion rice to mix with a creamy-thick crab sauce.

mr ed gratin

Crabmeat au gratin is a specialty at Mr. Ed's Seafood &  Italian Restaurant in Bucktown. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Crabmeat au gratin at Mr. Ed's Seafood & Italian Restaurant, 1001 Live Oak St., Metairie – The search for a restaurant open on a Monday and with some availability one balmy spring night led us to this modern classic and this dish of decadence.

afrodisiac shrimp stew

Curry shrimp stew with fried catfish, corn and sweet potatoes at Afrodisiac, a restaurant for Creole and Caribbean fusion cuisine in Gentilly. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Curry shrimp stew at Afrodisiac, 5363 Franklin Ave. – Here’s a one-plate demonstration of what this Caribbean-Creole restaurant is all about. Plump shrimp and smoked sausage give dueling flavors to the stew, crisp fried catfish picks up flavors from the curry too and generous sides make it a feast.

piece steak

A Wagyu Denver cut steak with chimichurri and "the million dollar potato" with ribeye bits at Piece of Meat, a restaurant for meat lovers in New Orleans (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Wagyu Denver steak at Piece of Meat, 3301 Bienville St. – What started as a butcher shop morphed into what feels like a boutique steakhouse, a little Spanish and very distinctive. This cut, new to me, was similar to a strip with fantastic marbling. By the light of the beef tallow candles, you can add bone marrow chimichurri or blue cheese butter.

alma pork

Pork belly salad at Alma, a Bywater restaurant showcasing Honduran cuisine with modern style and global influences. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Pork belly salad at Alma, 800 Louisa St. – “Pork belly” and “salad” are not often seen together, but this modern Honduran restaurant presents a nice contrast between the crisp, dense wonks of meat and the interplay of fresh herbs and salad greens, tied together by a coconut milk vinaigrette.

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Chase Haydel, a fifth generation grandson, serves gumbo z'herbes to patrons on Holy Thursday at Dooky Chase's Restaurant. (Photo by David Grunfeld, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune | The New Orleans Advocate)

Gumbo z’herbes at Dooky Chase’s Restaurant, 2301 Orleans Ave. – Served only on Holy Thursday, and always on Holy Thursday, Dooky Chase’s “green gumbo” is an experience that came along this year when I badly needed some uplift. Working through a bowl of many different greens and meats, with cornbread and fried chicken on the side, and a good friend across the table and a restaurant full of community proved the cathartic potential of tradition.

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Chef Huy Pham prepares a platter of "dressed" nigiri, a specialty at his Japanese restaurant Yakuza House in Metairie. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Dressed nigiri at Yakuza House, 2740 Severn Ave, Metairie – When Huy Pham relocated his once-tiny restaurant he didn’t just expand seating but also the menu’s possibilities. The ever-changing array of fish includes many locally-rare types. Put yourself in the chef’s hands and opt for “dressed” to have the fish finished with varying oils and sauces.

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Citrus salad with shaved fennel and pickled onion at Breakaway's R&B, a restaurant and bar working an old school style in new ways in New Orleans. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Citrus salad at Breakaways R&B, 2529 Dauphine St. – Who orders salad at a bar? You should to get a taste of the citrus salad with pickled onion and fennel and toasty pecans and puffed rice. This is a new tavern in the Marigny with an old soul that also reflects the way people eat today.

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King trumpet mushrooms with pistachio pesto at Bar Brine, the dinner concept that shares a space with the lunch restaurant Sneaky Pickle. (Photo by Max Becherer, NOLA.com, The Times-Picayune | The New Orleans Advocate)

King trumpet mushrooms at Bar Brine, 3200 Burgundy St. – The more upscale next chapter of chef Ben Tabor’s lunch concept Sneaky Pickle, Bar Brine takes the fresh-first, vegetarian friendly yet thoroughly omnivorous aesthetic to the next level. The king trumpet mushrooms make an entrée that truly does taste meaty, over a bed of cashew cream grits.

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Garlic butter chicken wings, pho tai and Korean-style short ribs with kimchi at Tan Dinh, the Vietnamese restaurant in Gretna. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Pho tai at Tan Dinh, 1705 Lafayette St., Gretna – Finding this long-running Vietnamese restaurant open again after a worrisome hiatus signaled a reunion with favorite dishes. I’ve been eating the pho here through various chapters of my own life, and it was again a comfort to take in its fragrant, rich, oil-dappled broth again.

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Chocolate chip cookies from Ayu Bakehouse in New Orleans. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Chocolate chip cookies at Ayu Bakehouse, 801 Frenchmen St. – There’s always something new coming from the oven at this new morning spot on Frenchmen Street. But every single time, whatever else I get, I always want the masterful chocolate chip cookies, and I always get two.

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Dosa, a thin pancake made from fermented rice and lentil batter on a piping hot griddle, is a centerpiece of Tava Indian Street Food in New Orleans. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Dosa at Tava Indian Street Food, 611 O’Keefe Ave. – These lacy, toasty, delicate pancakes are made from fermented rice and lentil batter before your eyes at the bar, and served as platters to rip apart with curry, spicy lamb or chickpea stew.

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Pork and clams is a rustic Portuguese inspired dish on the menu at the Gloriette, the restaurant in the Southern Hotel in downtown Covington. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Pork and clams Alentejana, at the Gloriette, 428 E. Boston St., Covington – An elegant newcomer in the Southern Hotel, the menu here is mostly French and Creole. But then chef Steve Marsella brings out this specialty, a platter-sized rustic feast based on a gorgeously garlicky tomato sauce plumped with white beans and gilded with olive oil.

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Bagels from Flour Moon Bagels in New Orleans, part of a growing trend for traditional, hand-made bagels. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Everything bagel at Flour Moon Bagels, 457 N Dorgenois St. – I’m calling out the everything bagel, but everything they do with bagels here starts the right way — hand rolled, kettle-boiled after an overnight fermentation and then baked. The result is a world class bagel, here in New Orleans.

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Cured Arctic char is served with fried caper, lemon and dill at Bisutoro, a Japanese restaurant in New Orleans. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Arctic char at Bisutoro, 1581 Magazine St. – A more refined new addition from a founder of Rock-n-Sake, Bisutoro is a highly focused sushi bar bringing in fish not commonly found locally. One example was claret-colored cured arctic char with flavor as deep as it looks, finished with a bit of fried caper lemon and dill.

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Goat cheese creme fraiche quenelles with lavender honey and poached pear is a dessert that's been on the menu from the start at Lilette, the Uptown bistro on Magazine Street. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Goat cheese quenelles at Lilette, 3637 Magazine St. – This was the finale for a meal of memory, composed of dishes that I’ve been eating since John Harris opened his fine-tuned bistro two decades ago, because they are just that consistent. Sour-sweet and vanishingly soft, these dumpling-like dollops deepen in complexity with each spoonful.

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Claw and knuckle meat fills a lobster roll from the New Orleans pop-up Joel's Lobster Rolls. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Lobster roll from Joel’s Lobster Rolls, various locations, see Instagram.com/joelslobsterrolls – This pop-up sparked quite the lobster lust as word spread this summer. It draws from the Connecticut tradition, served hot with a drizzle of butter over the claw and knuckle meat.

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Provoleta, a molten skillet of cheese, herbs and oil, is a signature at La Boca steakhouse in New Orleans. (Photo by Chris Granger | The Times-Picayune | The New Orleans Advocate)

Provoleta at La Boca, 870 Tchoupitoulas St. – Requests from friends brought a serendipitous string of visits to this Argentine steakhouse, and every single time we started with this scintillating skillet of molten cheese, herbs and olive oil.

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Drum almandine at Palmettos on the Bayou in Slidell. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Drum almandine at Palmettos on the Bayou, 1901 Bayou Lane, Slidell – Even in the summer you’ll want to eat on the patio, a mosaic of green bayou verdure. Palmettos’ food is as tight as I’ve ever seen it here since chef Ross Dover took the helm, as this crisp-edged, buttery-finished fish shows.

sukeban toro

Toro, the luscious tuna belly, fills a hand roll at Sukeban, an izakaya on Oak Street in New Orleans. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Toro handroll at Sukeban, 8126 Oak St. – Nori, the seaweed wrapper, is a cornerstone at chef Jacqueline Blanchard’s izakaya. So fresh it gives an audible crunch, it transforms in texture even through the four-bite course of a handroll. It’s a testament to sourcing with intent.

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Pollo con tajadas, fried chicken over fried plantains with cabbage and creamy sauce, at Tia Maria's Kitchen, part of a growing hub of Honduran flavor in Mid-City. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Pollo con tajadas at Tia Maria’s Kitchen, 2931 Tulane Ave. – You have to dig a bit for the fried chicken in the pollo con tajadas at this year-old Honduran restaurant. But there’s no doubt it is the crispy-crusted, juicy center of this dish, exuberantly finished with crunchy fried plantain strips, finely shredded cabbage and creamy sauce.

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Peach upside down cake with sugary art from a summer menu at Jack Rose restaurant in New Orleans. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Peach upside down cake at Jack Rose, 2031 St Charles Ave. – This riotously colorful restaurant makes a boisterous first impression, and that carries through to decadent desserts like this deconstructed classic, topped with artful sugar. A gulp from a pair of Chambongs (those one-hit shots for sparkling wine) didn’t hurt either.

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Starting with a cooked dish called dry pot, staff at Dian Xin on Exchange Place in the French Quarter add broth at the table to create a hot pot. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Dry pot at Dian Xin 2, 620 Conti St. – The second location of this dim sum specialist brings hot pot and its related sub-specialty, dry pot. The meat and vegetables are stir-fried in the kitchen for the first taste, then you can add the hot broth at the table as you go, essentially creating a two-course meal.

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Veal saltimbocca crusted with capers and bright with lemon at Gianna restaurant in New Orleans. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Veal saltimbocca at Gianna, 700 Magazine St. – As much as I love Creole Italian cooking, sometimes only “Italian Italian” will do. So it was with these ultra-thin cutlets crusted with capers and singing with lemon at and Donald Link’s stylish and buzzy downtown restaurant.

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Chamorro, a Mexican-style osso bucco, is one of the rustic, hearty dishes at La Tia Cantina in Metairie. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty | The Times-Picayune)

Chamorro at La Tia Cantina, 4517 W. Esplanade Ave., Metairie – This dish is emblematic of La Tia’s style as an approachable, anytime restaurant working deeper Mexican specialties into the menu. Chamorro is the Mexican version of osso buco, with pork flaking easily into a creamy base of refried beans surrounded by steak fry-style potatoes.

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Doro wot, a deeply-flavored stew with chicken and boiled egg, and mar mitmita shrimp glazed with local honey, at Addis NOLA, the Ethiopian restaurant on Bayou Road in New Orleans. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Mar mitmita shrimp at Addis NOLA, 2514 Bayou Rd. – You eat with your hands here in the traditional Ethiopian way. In its larger and exuberantly re-imagined new home, Addis NOLA also brings a meal that engages all your senses. This seafood dish blends Gulf freshness with the robust spice of mitmita and a touch of honey.

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Digging into a regional variety of freshly shucked oysters at Sidecar Patio & Oyster Bar in New Orleans on Wednesday, August 3, 2022. (Photo by Chris Granger | The Times-Picayune | The New Orleans Advocate)

Bayou Rosa oysters at Sidecar Patio & Oyster Bar, 1114 Constance St. – More Louisiana oysters are coming through modern cultivation, and this one represented a revival for a fourth-generation oyster family. Created in the waters near the end of Bayou Lafourche, they taste meaty and briny, cut by a bright, herbaceous flavor.

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The meatball is a menu centerpiece at Rizzuto's Ristorante & Chop House, serving a mix of steaks and Italian dishes. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Meatball at Rizzuto’s Ristorante and Chop House, 6262 Fleur De Lis Dr. and 2020 Belle Chasse Hwy., Gretna – The menus at these two restaurants are largely the same, and with the new addition this year Rizzuto’s brought a needed, local upscale option to Gretna. Don’t miss the meatball, plated up on its own (or with pasta) on a bed of ricotta.

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Kirk Frady prepares "the grumpy old man breakfast," a hearty bargain to start the day at his Bywater market Frady's One Stop Food Store. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, Nola.com | The Times-Picayune)

Grumpy old man breakfast at Frady’s One Stop, 3231 Dauphine St. – Another from the hunt for meals still under $10, this corner store serves a breakfast plate all day that should brighten the mood of any frugal visitor, with two eggs, bacon or sausage, grits or potatoes for $6.

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An apple Hubig's Pie from the first batch distributed by the New Orleans company on Nov. 6, 2022, more than a decade after fire destroyed its original home. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)

Apple Hubig’s Pie, various locations – Like a palm-sized Rip Van Winkle, the beloved Hubig’s Pie returned after a decade in limbo, and people swiftly cleared them from grocery shelves. It is an unabashedly sweet throwback in these more health-conscious times, gloriously so, with fried pastry dough glazed in sugar, the evidence of which sticks to your fingers and whatever you touch next. Memories cling to it too.

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