The Best Dishes Eater Editors Ate This Week - Eater NY

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The amount of excellent food available in New York City is dizzying — even during a pandemic — yet mediocre meals somehow keep worming their way into our lives. With Eater editors dining out sometimes several times a day, we do come across lots of standout dishes, and we don’t want to keep any secrets. Check back weekly for the best things we ate this week — so you can, too.

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April 4

A salami sandwich at Russo’s Mozzarella and Pasta.

Luke Fortney/Eater NY

Salami sandwich at Russo’s Mozzarella and Pasta

There’s something about large menus — the kind found at Greek diners, 24-hour bodegas, dim sum parlors, and this Italian grocer in Park Slope — that stops me in my tracks. “How long would it take to actually read this thing?” I’m usually thinking, when an employee asks for my order. In this case, like others, I panic ordered the first thing on the menu, a sandwich dusted in flour and stuffed with slices of salami, ham, lettuce and provolone ($13). Should I have asked for “more time,” or at the very least something with mozzarella, the cheese for which this Brooklyn offshoot of a century-old East Village shop is named and known for? Probably, but on a Sunday afternoon seemingly made for outdoor dining, provolone more than did the trick. 312 Fifth Avenue, between Second and Third streets, Park Slope — Luke Fortney, reporter

Garlic shrimp pie at Cuts & Slices

I spent the bulk of my Cuts & Slices review singing the praises of a few Caribbean-themed slices, especially ones with sweet chile oxtail, spicy jerk shrimp, and curried oxtail. But anyone who’s visited Randy McLaren’s Brooklyn pizzeria knows that there’s much more on tap. The website lists fried salmon diavolo pizza, jerk chicken sausage with black truffle Alfredo, and even a slice involving chicken and French toast. Among that larger selection of internationally leaning pizza, I was particularly taken by the shrimp parmesan ($10). Tiny little crustaceans sit atop a layer of cheese with tons of garlic butter. The white slice is everything you’d expect: crisp, airy, and garlicky, with the shellfish adding a touch of gentle maritime sugars and textures. Heat it up in your toaster oven and let the heady aromas of shrimp scampi perfume your kitchen. 93 Howard Avenue, at Halsey Street, Bed-Stuy — Ryan Sutton, chief critic

Stir-fried egg and pepper noodle bowl from Silky Kitchen.

Erika Adams/Eater NY

Stir-fried egg and pepper noodle bowl from Silky Kitchen

It feels like a lifetime ago, but remember last Monday, when it was so cold and windy that it hurt to breathe outside? I scrapped more ambitious dinner plans that night and melted into a takeout bowl of stir-fried egg and pepper with noodles from fast-casual Hunanese restaurant Silky Kitchen ($12). It was the exact meal that I needed to ride out winter’s last gasp: Soft, thick ropes of noodles came coiled around diced green and red peppers, crunchy baby bok choy, and scrambled egg that had been absolutely doused in tongue-tingling spices. My insides defrosted immediately. 137 East 13th Street, near Third Avenue, Union Square — Erika Adams, deputy editor

A vegan chicken parm at Unregular Pizza.

Bao Ong/Eater NY

Vegan chicken parm at Unregular Pizza

I’ve been thinking about hot parm heros ever since Eater critic Robert Sietsema wrote about his 11 favorites in NYC. I recently stopped by Unregular Pizza to check out its pies, in particular the Burrapizza — square slices topped with an orb of creamy burrata — but it was the chicken parm ($12.50) that caught my eye. This version checked off all the boxes I wanted in this Italian-American sandwich: The toasted focaccia wasn’t so oversized that each bite was mostly bread. The golden cutlet of poultry was crisp. Just enough sweet marina was smoothered on top with thin discs of mozzarella and a few basil leaves. I could’ve been fooled, but it turns out the entire sandwich was meat-free. The cutlet didn’t have a cardboard consistency like so many other versions, and the Vertage cheese had that squeaky, QQ texture that makes mozzarella so appealing. Next time, I’ll come back for this sandwich and a vegan slice. 135 Fourth Avenue, between 13th and 14th streets, East Village — Bao Ong, editor

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The Best Dishes Eater Editors Ate This Week - Eater NY
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